Monte Rosa Group 4000ers
Climb up to 7 peaks over 4000m in just four days!
Here is your chance to summit no less than seven peaks above 4.000 meters in less than a week.
The Monte Rosa Group has the highest average elevation of all the Alps’ ranges. You “bump into” 4000er upon 4000er here and what we offer you is the chance to summit 8 peaks above 4.000m in the course of just a week. Sounds good?
It’s tough and the weather has to play along, but you won’t find a better place with so many big alpine peaks so densely packed upon each other than the Monte Rosa Group. As if Monte Rosa’s peaks weren’t beautiful enough, you get to catch glimpses of Matterhorn too.
This week-long course is a must for all who are toying with the idea of a larger scale expedition to the Andes or the Himalayas.
|August 8, 2018, Wed||August 12, 2018, Sun|
Further InfoDrop us a line if the above date is not good for you. We can offer private dates during the season. There are tons of possibilities here in the choice of routes. If you're an experienced mountaineer, you can opt for more difficult routes to these peaks.
Is this trip for you?
Day 1: Meet at Alagna Valsesia (1.100 m) and go to Gnifetti refuge (3.647 m)
Alagna Valsesia is a lovely little town. Be sure to check out the historic downtown. The meeting point is at the chairlift taking you to Salati saddle (2940 m). After getting off at the top, it’s a nice and colorful trek to Gnifetti refuge. The trail takes you up on rocky terrain to Punta Indren where you proceed on to the glacier. It’s a 3-hour climb from here to the hut.
As you may not have acclimatised beforehand, your guide will lead you very slowly. In the evening, you may experience minor headaches from the altitude, but be sure to drink lots of fluids and you’ll be fine by morning at the latest.
Day 2: Piramide Vincent (4.215 m), Balmenhorn (4.165 m), Corno Nero (4.322 m)
On this warm-up day, you will conquer three hills above 4.000 meters of altitude. Not bad for a warm-up day, eh? These mountains are the nearest ones to your refuge. And climbing above 4.000 meters will give you a glimpse of the immaculate beauty of this region.
Day 3: Ludwigshöhe (4.342 m), Parrotspitze (4.435 m), Punta Gnifetti (4.560 m)
Another round of three for today. These climbs require considerably more effort than yesterday’s peaks, so it’s essential that you start out early. Two hours of climbing will take you to the summit of Ludwigshöhe, from where Parrotspitze is the next stop with a knifeblade-ridge leading to its summit. Parrotspitze is an hour’s climb from Ludwigshöhe.
You’d think you could call it a day, but the highest point of your holiday still lies ahead. The climb to Punta Gnifetti, otherwise known as Signalkuppe, will give you views of such reckoned peaks as the Matterhorn or Dufourspitze.
Day 4: Naso del Lyskamm (4.272 m)
On this day, you’re targeting a nearby peak that is technically more difficult than the previous ones you’ve done; the firn slope under the summit comes in at 55°. You’ll need to get going a bit earlier for this one: at around 6 AM because you’ll need to complete your descent before the sun dangerously melts the snowfield.
You’re carefully following your guide’s footsteps on the steep face, secured by his rope. The views you get here more than compensate for the technical difficulties – and you’ve just bagged a new 4000er, which you can celebrate in the hut.
Day 5: Finish or Keep Going for a Few More Days
You can descend back to the valley today, or you can extend your stay if you’ve come this far (up). You can take on the higher and more technical Lyskamm (4.461m) or the second highest peak of the Alps: Monte Rosa/Dufourspitze (4.634m).
Equipment and Info
Getting to Monte Rosa
You meet your guide in Alagna, Italy. The most convenient way if you’re flying to Turin, from where we can help you catch a bus. If you’re in the Chamonix or Zermatt area, let us know. You may be able to get a ride to the mountain with your guide.
You spend your nights up in Gnifetti Hut, at 3.600 meters, where – unless you’re acclimatised – you may experience a minor headache on your first night. The first night’s sleep will likely not be very comfortable, but bagging the easy, nearby four-thousand-meter peaks the following morning will make up for the discomfort.
What you need to bring for the trip is good climbing boots broken in, so they won’t hurt your feet. Check here what we recommend.
Here is a list that may be helpful to get yourself organized before the trip:
- trekking socks
- waterproof pants – make sure you treat them with water-repellent prior to your trip
- waterproof jacket/softshell – make sure you treat it with water-repellent prior to your trip
- climbing pants
- two pairs of gloves
- warm hat
- bandana/cap against the sun
- sunscreen (min. factor 30) and lip balm
- 2 fleece sweaters/vest
- light and thin sleeping bag for huts
- climbing boots
- trekking poles
- backpack – 45-60 liters (here are some more specific tips on the ideal backpack)
If you want more information on proper equipment, here’s a detailed guide about the three layers, with specific tips on what to bring.
Food and Drinks
Like we said before, you can buy food at the Hut but it is a good idea to bring your own stuff as well. Get some practical advice on Mountain Food so you maximize your performance – here.