Lenin Peak (7134m) Expedition

Stunning beauty and incredible cultural experience - A respectful but relatively "easy 7000er"

Superior service, maximising your chances of success on a relatively easy 7000er.

Lenin Peak (7134m) Expedition

Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan at 7134 is considered to be one of the easiest 7000 meter summits of the planet. Not only that, but it’s also among the most accessible big mountains in the world with arguably the most pleasant Base Camp. I mean, where else can you pack your stuff in a jeep and drive to a grassy, sunny BC from an international airport in just 10 hours?

If you haven’t climbed a 7000er and are looking for your first one, I wouldn’t look further. Why go to Nepal for a 7000 meter peak, when those mountains take days to access and have a pricetag of 5-6 times that of Lenin? This deal is a real bargain.

The summit itself may be technically easy, as the most difficult part is scrambling up a 40 degree ice slope, but beware: the weather on this mountain can be real harsh. The basecamp is also quite low, so you’ll have to cover about 3500 meters of vertical to the summit.

Nevertheless, with the correct preparation, it’s more than doable. You get consulting on training and equipment from our behalf from the moment you sign up. We talk things over very thoroughly before taking you to the Pamir mountains – perhaps even give you some discount on a preparatory Mt. Blanc climb or the like. There is no reason to procrastinate, if you’re serious about getting into big mountain climbing, you have every reason to act now and sign up.

Dates

Departure

Arrival

July 23, 2017, Sun August 12, 2017, Sat
August 11, 2017, Fri August 31, 2017, Thu

Further Info

You should have experience climbing a high 5000 meter mountain such as Mt. Elbrus or Island Peak. This is technically easier than the climb to the top of the Alps, but a lot more demanding. You can't really train your body's ability to acclimatise, but a good stamina helps your overall chances of a fun and successful ascent. If the fixed date doesn't fit, you can request a specific date, but you might need to pay the guide alone, and the expedition package will also cost more. Let us know and we'll work out what's convenient for you. NOTE: This climb is a guided, group expedition, which means we can only accept participants who have the necessary high mountain experience and are willing to follow the decisions of the guide in charge.  

Is this trip for you?

Physical Difficulty
5
Technical Difficulty
2
Cultural Shock
4

Itinerary

Note: This climb is a guided, group expedition, which means the following:

  • In any situation the decision is up to the guide to make; it is forbidden to leave the camp or the team without his or her permission.
  • This obligation applies to all participants, and the non-compliance of this rule may be followed by an immediate exclusion.
  • Since our body reacts differently to high altitude, it may occur a that the stronger hikers go higher and the weaker go down, so the team splits.
  • It may happen in such cases, due to the decision and instructions of the guide, that the hiker absolves the distance alone and without the presence of the guide, on safe routes and lower altitudes, between the camps. Thus we only accept applications from participants who have verified their significant high altitude experience.
  • From that moment, if the participant leaves the expedition, due to sickness or else, or cancels it before the end of the official program, he or she will be charged with the 100% of the lodging and additional costs. There is no reimbursement from the expedition package and the application fee.
  • If the guide decides that the applicant is not suitable in continuing the trip for any reasons (in case of medical problems, lack of equipment, etc.), he or she may be recommended to leave the expedition.
  • The program we describe below is a plan, which the guide may modify, based on the conditions of the applicants and the weather.

Day 1: Arrive / Transfer to Osh

Meeting at the airport, transfer to and accommodation at the hotel. Today you have free time for walking, visiting sights, bazaars or do the shopping for the next days.

Day 2: Drive from Osh to the “Edelweiss Glade” Base Camp (3600 m)

After breakfast you jump in the jeep with all your stuff and start your 8-10 hour trip to the Base Camp. Before you leave Osh, you may do some shopping in the bazaar for some food if you didn’t do it the day before.
After the long and dusty journey, you finally arrive at the Base Camp, where you are accommodated in comfortable base tents.

Day 3: Acclimatisation. Climbing Peak Petrovskogo (4830m)

Your eyes pop open early in the morning and you are full of energy, ready for the big adventure. As a decent way of acclimatisation, you climb Peak Petrovskogo, a mountain almost as high as Mont Blanc.

Day 4:  Prepare yourself for ascent.

You wake up in the morning, realize that you are in the Base Camp of Pik Lenin! What, who? Lenin. Ibn Sina. Avicenna. Yes, that’s all the names of this mighty peak. After the first shock you will have to think through what to leave and where in BC tomorrow, when you start ascent, but don’t worry, there is a luggage office for this reason.
It’s worth to hike around a bit and not just sitting whole day in the camp. You can take a walk to the Puteshestvennikov (Travellers) Pass (4,200m) or walk down to the valley to see alpine lakes.

Day 5: Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m)

The first day of ascend. Today you climb up to Camp 1, 800 meters of vertical. You will follow the Puteshestvennikov Pass until you reach the Lenin Glacier. There are crevasses in the thick ice, so you have to move on carefully. The total ascent time is about 4 hours, and you finally reach Camp 1, which is set up on the moraine of the glacier. Spacious yurts, warm, delicious meals, it feels like home. Accomodation is in tents like in the Base Camp.

Day 6: Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m)

It takes about 6-7 hours to get to Camp 2: first uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face. Further up across menacing crevasses on the steep slope, where you use fixed ropes. Then traverse the slope to the right to get to the plateau, known as “Skovoroda”, also the “Frying Pan”. And just across it you will reach Camp 2.

Day 7: Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m)

From Camp 2 ascend along the 25 to 30-degrees steep slope to the adjacent ridge. Then carry on along the lengthy and nearly level slope traversing it towards the last up-swinging bit before the top of Razdelnaya Peak (6200 m). From the top descend to Camp 3 (6100 m) at the foot of the peak.

Day 8: Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Descent is carried out on the same way and takes less time and effort. You can reach Camp 1 in 4-5 hours and there you will plunge yourself into comfort of civilisation: Internet, good cuisine and a can of cold beer or juice.

Day 9: Descend to the Base Camp (3600 m)

You are back in Edelweiss Glade. Now you have time to relax. You can enjoy the grassy glade, the Asian sun and the hospitality of BC. And of course there is vapour bath where you can refresh yourself after the days of ascent.

Day 10-11: Rest-days

If you don’t want to lie all day, you can choose the active relaxation. It’s time to make picturesque photos, visit the lakes in Achik-Tash valley, where you can even swim, or just play volley-ball with the others in BC.

Ascent (Days 12 – 15)

Day 12: Ascend to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Along the well-known path get to the Camp and meet with its inhabitants, visit the yurt… Close the day with a good meal and a nice sleep. You will need the energy in the following days!

Day 13: Ascend to Camp 2 (5300 m)

Upwards again… The way does not seems as long as it was the first time – this is a usual feeling and it’s fine, because you are able to look around. At the same time, because of the acclimatisation, your breathing stays in rhythm! Though it feels easier this time, you have to stay focused; you cannot relax! You spend the night in Camp 2 (5300 m).

Day 14: Ascend to Camp 3 (6100 m)

Try to settle in for the night with comfort, as far as it’s possible. You may feel that your tongue could hardly move and your movements are slower, but it’s OK on this altitude. However, you need to have a rest, refresh yourself, restore reserve of powers spent during the day, and prepare in mind for tomorrow!

Day 15: Ascend to the top of the Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descend to Camp 3 (6100 m)

Early start at 5-6 AM, the summit is already waiting for you! You keep on from the saddle to a narrow ice ridge, then carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6900-7000 m) and further up to the summit. And finally the whole Pamir lies at your feet! After the obligatory summit photo and few minutes respite, you set off to downhill along the same path towards Camp 3.

Day 16: Descend to Camp 1 (4400 m)

Good dinner in a warm yurt – it is well deserved after such an ascent. And it waits for you there in Camp 1! Successful return is a good excuse for you to have a drink or two with your companions this night.

Day 17: Descend to Base Camp (3600 m)

Upon arrival have a vapour bath followed by a traditional special dinner set in the Kyrgyz yurt to celebrate your happy return to BC. Upon preliminary agreement, your dinner may include a nicely done young lamb. You can get a bit of the fine national culture of the nomadic people.

Day 18: Reserve day in case of bad weather

Well, in the mountains you can never really know what to expect weather-wise. If you had sunshine and happiness all through the expedition, you can use these reserve days for playing poker, flying kites or learning new languages.

Day 19: Drive from Base Camp to Osh

Accommodation in guest house. Feel the charm of a nearly forgotten civilisation. Walk in the town in the night for leisure.

Day 20: Leaving Osh, flying to Bishkek

Saying farewell to your beloved team members, you decide when and where you meet again. Somewhere above 7000 meters, that’s out of question.

Equipment and Info

Geography:

Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan at 7134 is considered to be one of the easiest 7000 meter summits of the planet. Not only that, but it’s also among the most accessible big mountains in the world with arguably the most pleasant Base Camp. You can you pack your stuff in a jeep and drive to the BC from an international airport in just 10 hours.

The summit itself may be technically easy, as the most difficult part is scrambling up a 40 degree ice slope, but beware: the weather on this mountain can be real harsh. The basecamp is also quite low, so you’ll have to cover about 3500 meters of vertical to the summit.

Strength, Stamina:

You should have experience climbing a high 5000 meter mountain such as Mt. Elbrus or Island Peak (trekking peaks such as Kilimanjaro no good). This is technically easier than the climb to the top of the Alps, but a lot more demanding. You can’t really train your body’s ability to acclimatise, but a good stamina helps your overall chances of a fun and successful ascent.

Equipment

Head:

  • glacier glasses
  • ski glasses
  • spare glasses
  • hat, scarf against the sun
  • thick hat
  • face mask against the wind

Upper body:

  • underclothing (merino or synthetic)
  • thin polar
  • thick polar, or vest
  • softshell jacket (hooded)
  • light down, or primaloft jacket (2-300g)
  • waterproof hardshell jacket
  • thick down jacket (5-600g)

Hands:

  • 2 pairs of polar or softshell gloves
  • 1 pair of thick gloves (5 fingers, waterproof)
  • 1 pair of thick gloves (2 fingers, down)

Legs:

  • shorts
  • climbing pants
  • underclothing (merino or synthetic)
  • polar pants
  • hardshell (wind and waterproof)

Feet:

  • sandal (to step in water)
  • trekking or running shoes
  • trekking boots
  • Duplex boots (Scarpa Phantom 6000, 8000, North Face Verto S8k, La sportiva Spantik, La Sportiva Olympos Mons, Millet everest Summit gtx)
  • gaiter
  • socks (warmer and thinner, several pairs)

Accessories:

  • trekking poles (with snow baskets)
  • down winter sleeping bag
  • feather bedding (to keep your lower body warm)
  • down slippers (if you tend to be cold)

Technical gear:

  • carabiners
  • helmet
  • harness
  • ice axe
  • high altitude tents (can be rented)

More details are available once you enquire on the form below. We’re looking forward to getting in touch with you and organizing your Lenin ascent. Rock on!

Meeting / Getting There:

You will arrive to International Airport in Bishkek or Osh, where our guides will pick you up.

The Price Includes:

  • meeting/seeing off in the airports according the program
  • air tickets Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (if you land in Osh, price is 1700GBP)
  • all necessary formalities (permit, registration)
  • accommodation in the cities (Osh – 2nights, Bishkek – 1night)
    * If you arrive to Osh or Bishkek early in the morning (till 12AM), early coming to the hotel is considered to be a full day and you have to pay additionally.
  • transfers Osh – Base Camp – Osh
    * Please note, if somebody from the group decides to leave BC earlier, (s)he needs to pay extra for transport or may join other clients who go down within the next days
  • accommodation in twin tents in Base Camp and Camp 1 (4200m)
  • nutrition in Base Camp and Camp 1 (4200m). Quantity of days with full service in Base Camp and Camp 1 is unlimited.
  • use of kitchen equipment (tables, chairs and etc.) in Base Camp and Camp 1 (4200m)
  • use of shower, electricity in Base Camp
  • consultation with professional doctors and first-aid station in Base Camp and Camp 1 (4200)
  • use of radio stations on the mountain
  • storage-room

The Price Does Not Include:

  • personal porters
  • insurance
  • flight to/from Osh or Bishkek
  • overload during the flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek, except allowed weight (15 kg)
  • high-altitude cook and altitude meals over Advanced Base Camp 4200
  • rent of altitude tents for the period of ascent
  • rent of personal equipment
  • gas cartridges
  • additional radio stations for connection on the mountain
  • additional payment for single accommodation in the cities and base camps
    – additional payment for single accommodation in the cities
    – additional payment for single accommodation in the base camps

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